The show started with a man, dressed as a shy lady, sitting timidly on a chair. Suddenly another performer reached the stage, in the most outrageous costume. She was holding a fish, while moving around the stage covered in wired hair with prawns dangling from it. As she moved off the stage, we are now focused on the timid person on the chair. He abruptly stood up and undresses to reveal his fur bikini, then moved seductively around the stage.

Already the crowd had started whispering about the abnormality of the show. Slowly each model appeared on stage, dancing with each outfit more unique than the last. A man, wearing a white shirt over a protruding belly madly eating spaghetti, while another couple could be wearing apples on their top half.

The crowd wore stunned expressions when a model got up the stage nude, with only a plastic, clear triangle as adornment. As the show ended, the crowd clapped wildly while others are took time to digest what they had witnessed. The wacky show was an experience; also the word ‘unwearable’ may just be an understatement.

The Unwearables show was curated by Alice Rose Gunn Swing and Sarah Martinus. It featured designs from Michelle Boyde, Laura Bush, Tobi Clark, Sarah Gunn, Johnathon Keith Kirk, Tristan Ross Smyth Jones, Danielle Brustman, Vivian and Rafaella,  Monica Ramirez, Cassie Smith, Zoe Stuart, Daniel Cremona, Kasia Gorniak with Laurie Luxe.

 

Wise words by Mary Mana Mai

Happy snaps by Carlie Devine

The first act was the unique Jessica Ward performing from Circanica. Dressed in the evening’s theme of black and hot pink, Jessica astounded with her strength and flexibility where she balances on her hands upon three silver canes.

In fashion tradition Madonna’s “Vogue” opened for the ladies from Ministry of Dance. They appeared in striking sequinned black body suits, that even the furthest audience member could see and complimented by white and black millinery by Alexandra Harper.

Next, Sally Jones, lingerie designer is inspired by the silver screen sirens such as Marilyn Monroe and Bridget Bardot defining her latest collection. Sultry pieces were presented primarily themed in black and soft pinks as we rewind back to the early 1940’s where waist cinchers and corsets defined bedroom wear. Suspenders made their presence known, layered with sheer chiffon robes, and French lace underwear and tops were embellished with ruffle trims. Skirtini’s (super mini skirts) complimented garters, hosiery and long gloves and silk pieces. Sally Jones’ intimate collection complimented femineity and with modern design techniques, brings sultry and elegance back into the bedroom.

Daniela Orlando gave Melbourne the perfect winter collection featuring our favorite dark hues, namely black. She opened with a gorgeous black strapless mini dress with a wide vertical stripe down the centre and back in a dark metallic snakeskin design. Sky high pumps and thigh high boots complimented mini shift dresses in sheen fabrics and shirts belted and over leggings as Winter takes a sharp tailored look this season. Volume is minimal except in our layering where we saw black anoraks, structured tuxedo blazers and a dark purple and black tartan wrap-around jacket. The key piece of the collection was a black blazer with high shoulders and sleeves, which incorporated faux fur and metallic studs. A step outside the clean sophisticated lines of Daniela’s collection but something truly exclusive for the upcoming season.

Ever Layne’s collection presented her talent in taking simple shapes and playing with modern designs. A gorgeous white silk mini dress with a light frill hem was a flirty introduction to her collection. From the gathered, voluminous and the pencil, skirts were popular teamed with layered tops with cutouts and simple embellishments. Fabrics were soft with subtle sheen and pieces were minimally embellished with the most popular being the exposed zip. Ever Layne’s collection presented relaxed glamour perfect for the trans-seasonal wardrobe.

Lisa Maree’s passion for Bondi Beach had her embark on the creative technique of crochet swimwear. Taking the established template of the one piece and the cutout, she has creatively infused gorgeous crochet patterns throughout but keeping it modest in wearable pieces. Also creating a mini dress version and a body suit with capped sleeves, these pieces were unique and beautifully compliment the female silhouette.

I was lucky enough to sit next to the gorgeous Eva Q as we anticipated her collection. Eva brought prettiness to Catwalk Theatre with an elegant collection of white, cream and mocha dresses. From off the shoulder, to wrap around all dresses are beautiful embellished with ruffles and flowers alongside the dress, decorating décolletages and waists. Eva also recognizes her responsibility to the environment, using material cut-off’s to create embellishments and layer in with existing fabrics on her garments. Eva’s focus on classic silhouettes and all things romantic takes this collection to a new level.

I learnt that ‘Fauve’ is French for Wild Beasts which presented the flirtatious collection of Fauve’s bold lingerie teamed with Metal Couture accessories. Divine fabrics of French lace and silks create the delicate tops and bottoms complimented by garters, hosiery and lace embellishment. Creatively beautiful, Fauve’ presented an elegant lingerie collection.

Stepping into the dark and divine, Justine Davis’ Winter collection kept us stylish yet edgy featuring body suits layered with t-bar singlet’s and leather leggings layered in tailored black blazers. Singlet’s were embellished with sequins and featured spots of silk and satin fabrics as a gorgeous A-line satin ruffled dress entered the runway. Justine achieves understated glamour with simple pieces overlayed with luxurious fabrics.

Made in Donald walked the runway for the final time on the evening with a gorgeous white tiered frilled dress with a high silver halter feature decorated in bold silver sequins. She then entertained with Melbourne’s love affair with black winter infused with bold colours like yellow and from the voluminous to the fitted, the blazer again complimented all the unique pieces. Made in Donald also experimented with feather trimmings and bought summers jump suit trend into winter in a voluminous version. Layering featured heavily and was the fabric and quality tailoring was exceptional. The perfect end to a Melbourne Winter runway review.

 

Pretty prose by Angela Fedele

Fine photos by Stephanie Valencia

 

Inventive imagery by Paul Broomfield

At an unseen signal, the living statues start to move, stalking towards the road where they discard their trenches in unison and unveil ten black dresses, alike only in colour. A pack of photographers crowd around them, fighting for pride of place.

This was the launch of the 2010 Spirit of the Black Dress– a project committed to raising the profile of emerging designers through an annual exhibition showcasing ten interpretations of the classic wardrobe staple.

The ten designs previewed on the street that morning will be shown under more conventional circumstances at Georges on Collins from March 12-16 as part of the L’oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival.

Participating designer Maja Karlsen Mueller said the exhibition was the best way to showcase the designs.

“In the exhibition, people can get up close and see the detail of the garment, which can be lost on the catwalk,” she said, pointing out the intricate beading of her design.

Fellow designer Michelle Czech was quick to agree.

“I generally try to use colour a lot, so working in black can be challenging,” she said.

“You can lose detail in completely black designs.

“You need to find new ways to create embellishments.”

Despite the uniform colour, the collection showcases a diverse range of designs: ranging from the scandalously short to maxi-length; off-shoulder to puff-shoulder; and wool-blends to sheer fabrics.

Designer Melissa Mahony said a good design and embellishment were crucial to approaching the task.

“Working in black, the challenge is to make it stand out,” she said.

“When you can’t hide behind the print you need a strong design.”

Entrants this year were faced by an additional challenge as the project directed designers to incorporate sustainability into their design. This directive was approached with the creativity you’d expect.

“I made my design from two jumpers I bought at Savers,” said Czech, gesturing towards her knit, puff-shouldered creation.

“That had a great influence on the way I designed – I had to work with the cables of the jumpers to create texture.”

Another designer, Alexis Belcher, created a feminine design with a structured silhouette from a large-size men’s suit, found at an op-shop. She said the worn look of the fabric added something to her design she could not have achieved with new fabric.

“It makes you think outside just going to Spotlight and buying some fabric,” Czech surmised.

With such a wide range of interesting and contrasting designs, the 2010 collection reminds us why the black dress holds a coveted place in every woman’s wardrobe.

Fab Photography by Dan Archer

Words of Wisdom by Stephanie Anderson

 

 

Inventive imagery by Carlie Devine

Sidle on up to the Festival Bar – presented by Westfield Doncaster – during LMFF and you could also see your stylish self emblazoned on screens set up at sites across the city. Their “Faces @ the Festival” project combines a live photo booth with an exhibition as Melbournian’s personal style is celebrated, captured and displayed for all to see. The exhibition of fashionable festival-goers will then be broadcast live at Westfield Doncaster during LMFF (and also on Wednesday 24th as they have a special VIP shopping event happening).

I managed to have a little fun with LMFF Director Karen Webster and asked what drink she would want to be spotted with at the bar. Her diplomatic answer; “Chambord poured over fresh raspberries topped up with chilled Champagne Devaux… hmmm need one now!” My recommendation would be an espresso martini to keep the energy up for all the late night fashion shows.

Refresh at the Festival Bar at Woolshed Pub, 161 Harbour Esplanade, in the Docklands (right next to the L’Oreal Paris Runway shows). The bar is open from 5pm to 11pm each day from Monday 15th March until Saturday 20th March.

]]> http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/raising-the-festival-bar/feed/ 0 http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/dr-denim-collection-launch/ http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/dr-denim-collection-launch/#comments Mon, 08 Mar 2010 09:57:35 +0000 bronwyn http://stylemelbourne.com/?p=3992 The  latest jeasnwear collection from Swedes Dr. Denim has launched at Somewhere. Alongside that skinny-legged, dark-washed arrival was the birth of “Salad Days”. Billed as short film, Salad Days is actally a cinematic-style promo for the label in the same vein as Chanel’s recent advertising efforts with Nicole Kidman and Marion Cotillard. The story is short and sweet as a groug of “mature” jeans lovers refuse to give up their days of youth and set upon a mischevious journey. We’ve been charmed!

Check out the new young at heart Dr. Denim range at Somewhere on level 2 of the Royal Arcade, 314 Little Collins Street.

Happy snaps by Amanda Phoon

 

]]> http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/dr-denim-collection-launch/feed/ 0 http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/3984/ http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/3984/#comments Sun, 07 Mar 2010 11:34:48 +0000 bronwyn http://stylemelbourne.com/?p=3984 Once  a year, art and fashion combine under the watchful and very capable eye of the Moth design crew to create a space where all who worship fashion can come to pay homage, this Mecca of design is known as Penthouse Mouse. For the two week duration of Melbourne’s L’oreal fashion week, the former Naval and Military Club will host an explosion of life and colour and several art displays intended to push boundaries, designer articles as art installations are also incorporated to add to the aesthetic appeal. And why wouldn’t they, as one of Moth designs own Sonia Renstch claims “…Fusing art and fashion is not a new thing but definitely a positive thing! Fashion is art and art is fashion.”

Over the course of the Penthouse Mouse occupation, the space will morph form the glamorous opening party on the 6th, to a discussion and presentation space on the 10th with ‘Fashion Racquet’ the bonding of fashion and sport, to a runway show and after party with ‘Midmouse Runway’ on the 12th, to a live photo shoot on the 17th and then finishing with an inspirational and educational presentation by Piera Gelardi and Philippe von Borries, the minds behind New York’s most forward thinking online fashion publication Refinery29 on the 18th.

To wet your appetitie and inspire fascination, some of the designers on display are; Ok Ok, Minimara, Vanguard, From Britten, Autonomy, Trimapee, Satu, Leonard St, Limedrop, Thom Finch, Subfusco, Afar, Melanie Bower, with accessories and jewellery from; Kyoko Osato, Mecurialist, Gail Sorronda, Estelle Deve, O.T.T by Lia T, Anna Mason, Does not equal, Karla Way and Natalia Milosz-Peikarska. These are complemented by artists Volker Haug and Chris Nash, Studio Organic, Sam Stewart, Sam Woud, Ben Davis, Grace Cassio, Lance de France and Joseph L. Griffiths and Joshua M. Longmore to name a few. Penthouse Mouse is something worth checking out before it disappears for another year.

 

Written Word by Alex Schleibs

Pretty Pictures by Paul Broomfield

]]> http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/3984/feed/ 1 http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/event-oak-off-chapel/ http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/event-oak-off-chapel/#comments Sun, 07 Mar 2010 02:54:37 +0000 bronwyn http://stylemelbourne.com/?p=3978 The  newest addition to Melbourne’s exclusive fashion scene is a somewhat unconventional space just minutes from the eclectic Chapel street shopping drag. Oak off Chapel was ironically an abandoned clothes manufacturing warehouse which has had a second chance to be the birthplace for fashion, only now it is a multi functional space where budding designers can work individually or collaborate with other designers in residence to create and then produce items in house, which can then be displayed upstairs in the affectionately and aptly named gallery. The gallery exhibits the actual garments as installations everything on show is available for purchase.

Oak off Chapel’s impressive line up is completed with their very own on site PR Company PRville, allowing all the designers in residence professional exposure and support, all in hose do to speak. At the moment, Oak off Chapel features 12 unique brands that include; urban street labels ‘I heard they eat cigarettes’ and veterans ‘Chapter 11’, the all natural and sleek ‘Sosume’, the origami inspired ‘Kollate’, the very different and imperfect ‘Borsha’, ‘Kosi Kosi’, internationally renowned ‘Camilla Wellton’ and men’s shoe designers ‘St Lucia’ . It also features jewellery designed by ‘Jude’ and the jaw dropping ‘I’m glad you’re not dead’ by Tor Mathieson, with unique and covetable pieces that are a must. On display were silver pieces such as a meteorite inspired piece, a chunky teddy bear ring, and a silver cast wisdom tooth.

Oak off Chapel is an amazing opportunity for emerging designers to get a foot in the door in the very competitive and often exclusive Melbourne fashion scene. “.. To get your designs out there and on the racks, you already need to be in stores or featured in the media, so what we are trying to do is cut out the catch twenty two situation”  says ‘Dangerous’ Dave Brennan, one of the founders and driving forces behind Oak Off Chapel and one of the faces behind label ‘Chapter 11’.

 

Witty Words by Alex Schleibs

Perfect Pics by Paul Broomfield

]]> http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/event-oak-off-chapel/feed/ 1 http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/a-sinful-romance-with-eva-q/ http://stylemelbourne.com/2010/03/a-sinful-romance-with-eva-q/#comments Wed, 03 Mar 2010 00:13:08 +0000 stylemelbourne http://stylemelbourne.com/?p=3974 Sunny local designer Eva Q goes all dark and gothic on us during the creation of her latest collection – A Sinful Romance Black Collection 2010 – and resulting photoshoot.

Where was the location for your latest shoot?
The latest shoot was at Melbourne Cemtery on Lygon Street and it was on Australia Day.

Why did you go for a darker colour palette this season? Just for winter or did you want a change?
A bit of both actually. We all know black looks good on just about anyone. Its a safe, elegant and timeless colour… and it also makes you look skinner and don’t we all want that! Every girl should have a pretty black dress in her closet. You can wear them to so many events, girls night out, on a special date, just about anywhere really! I’ve put a range of different shapes, fabrics and cuts into this collection so there is something for every body shape, style or age group.

Are there any elements that are new to this collection that you are particularly proud of or are experimenting with?
I made a top entirely out of off cut fabrics. I cut them up into little squares and machine sewed all the little pieces onto a soluble fabric, after I was satisfied with the pattern I would wash off the soluble fabric and it created a delicate lacey fabric. Its an interesting process and the outcome was a success but it takes forever to make. But I’ll definitely keep experimenting with that technique for future collections. There are also a lot of layers in this collection, playing with the layering of opacity’s, textures and of course layering and overlapping embellishments.

Any exciting plans for you/the label in the next few months?
After the madness of my ‘Sinful Romance’ black collection I will jump straight into designing for my first winter range for Catwalk Theater. I’m really looking forward to getting back on my knitting machine and start knitting some dresses. So stay tuned! I have big plans for this collection… just hope I have time to pull it off. Also, after I won the Student Prize at the NRA Australian Fashion Design Awards in 2009, I went straight into starting a label. I am yet to ‘work’ in industry, so I’m thinking about getting an internship or traineeship with a local fashion house, just to gain more experience in the industry and see how the pro’s run their business.

 

Shoot Credits
Photographer – Elvina Mae Farkas
Stylist – Desiree McPhee from Styleid
Hair – Ross Joesph from Salon GoLightly
MUA – Jaynell Lording
Styling Assistant – Cizage Elbaz
Jewelery and Headpieces – Airdrie Makim of Joolz
Model – Danielle at Cameron’s

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